Journeying Upwards

The competition season has been busy in Alberta. With a competition almost every weekend, it is evident it is getting closer and closer to the height of competition season. Which means Regionals and Nationals are right around the corner!

The past month has been quite the whirlwind, between training, competitions and final exams and I have finally found some time to share my latest blog post, which is exciting.... I have so much to talk about. For this post I want to mainly focus on two important competitions that just recently took place. Bouldering provincials in Calgary and my two favorite lead competitions in Edmonton this past weekend.

On my way to sending open female final #2-Creds: Sara Frangos

Going into bouldering provincials this year I was pretty psyched. After surprising myself and making open finals at every bouldering competition this season I was ready to give it my all. I really used to dislike bouldering competitions, last year i kept getting shut down at every competition. Maybe it was self doubt or just getting too frustrated at the seemingly impossible problems but either way, something changed this year and I think I have a pretty good idea of what that is. Ever since I first started competing I have looked up to local climbers such as Stacey and Vikki Weldon and many of the other strong Calgary adult bouldering team. When I got the chance to compete with many of them last year I felt intimidated, how will I ever be as good as them I asked myself. But after the first bouldering comp this year I realized I was not that far from the top adult competitors. Their dedication and drive to train and win the competitions only made me stronger and more motivated to try and catch up. So when bouldering provincials arrived this year, I knew I would just go out, have fun, give it my all and see what happens. It ended up feeling like I climbed the best I ever had in finals at that competition, despite the jump start on problem #3. Haha at least I know what I need to work on :)

Check out this video from Bouldering Provincial Finals!

http://vimeo.com/87305417

After bouldering provincials we had a week of rest then it was off to Edmonton for the two rope competitions at Vertically Inclined and Rock Jungle Fitness. These are two of my favorite rope competitions of the season, I'm not exactly sure why but I think it is just the fun vibe both comps give off and all the super motivated competitors that attend them. For the first time in a while (at a lead comp) I felt like I climbed confidently and I just had fun. After all, like my coach Sonnie Trotter says, "if ya screw up there is always another competition!" That is what I kept in mind last weekend and what I will keep in mind as I journey upwards towards the National Championships.

Quali #1 RJF- Creds: Pam Eveleigh

As for my busy upcoming schedule I have two rope competitions this coming weekend in Banff and at our home gym in Canmore. Then I'm off to Edmonton the next weekend for Tour De Bloc open bouldering Regionals, should be a blast! Lastly a HUGE thank you to Flashed, my parents, coaches and friends for all your support :)

Happy Climbing,

Becca :)

 

Team Trotter (Canmore Climbing Team) representing Five Ten- Creds:Monika Helbig

My Results

2nd Place 16-17 Female Bouldering Provincials and Overall Provincially

2nd Place Open Female Bouldering Provincials and Overall Provincially

1st Place 16-17 Female Verticaly Inclined

1st Place 16-17 Female Rock Jungle Fitness

2nd Place so far for Lead open Female

View Full Results Here http://albertaclimbing.org/category/results/

Mind Control

It was last Friday when my coach Sonnie Trotter and the rest of my team were going over mental preparation before the Tour De Bloc at the Calgary Climbing Center. Sonnie mentioned the infamous quote, Whether you think you can, or think you can't you're right - Henry Ford. This made me realize how much control my mind has over my body and that if I was to do well at the competition, my mental state would have to be in tip top shape.

After already finishing a respectable second place in female open at the first bouldering competition in Edmonton, I was feeling confident about my climbing abilities but I could not stop thinking about how every year the boudering competitions in Calgary always go terribly wrong for me. Every year before the comp I would try to figure out why I had done so badly the year before. Was it the routes? Was I not prepared? Did I just fail miserably? These were the thoughts going through my mind until this year. This year I realized maybe I was doing so badly because I was psyching myself out by believing I can't climb well at specific competitions because I never had before.

Well this year that changed. I went into the competiton thinking positively and I just climbed and had fun. I ended up placing third in open female and first in youth A (16-17) female and I think it was all because of my mental state. So now going into the height of competition season, I am going to think positively and just go out and crush some holds. Next competition is January 11th at my local gym in Canmore!

Be miserable. Or motivate yourself. Whatever has to be done, it is always your choice - Wayne Dyer

Happy Climbing,

Becca :)

P.S Thanks so much to the Calgary Climbing Center for putting on such a great comp and thanks to Flashed my awesome sponsor! Make sure you guys check out their new shirts on their website! http://flashed.com/

Rocking my new Flashed tank on Finals Route #2. Photo Creds: Ben Haley

Eva Thompson crushing...like always :) Photo Creds: Ben Haley

Chasing Summer!

For a good year I had been staring up at a route called The Hood a 5.13B up at Acephale. Every time I walked by it I had to stop and look up at the beautiful piece of rock looming over me. Every thing about the route was perfect. The angle, the way the holds were shaped, I had to climb it. So this summer I thought why not give it a try.

The crux sequence consists of four really difficult and precise movements on crimps, pinches and side pulls. After that it is just a matter of keeping it together on the 12b/c section to the top. I remember coming home every night feeling so frustrated because I was falling on the same crux move to the pinch over and over and over again, even though I could one hang the route so easily. Either my foot slipped or I just did not have enough energy to keep going. After so many failed attempts I realized that every move had to be perfected.

Working the Crux! Photo Credit: Sara Frangos

Standing at the bottom of the wall on my sending burn, I slowly started get psyched. I glared up at the route thinking to myself this is going down. I looked over and smiled a cheeky grin at my sister Sara. Then finally I took of my cookie monster mitts and I made my way to the start. The first few moves felt quite good, and I was feeling super strong. Every clip was fast and I rested only when I needed to. So far every movement felt effortless. After what seemed like an eternity I found myself face to face with the crux. I did the first crux move and let out one long breath as geared up for the next, most difficult moves. I made it to the last crux move and in one swift motion lunged for the side I screamed as loud as I could, I was not going to fall now. When I made it past the crux I was all smiles but I remembered to stay calm and focused making sure to not make any stupid mistakes. I reached the top just a few minutes later, letting out a yahoooo as I clipped the anchors.

Working on the hood was frustrating, annoying, and it took a lot of mental energy. But every attempt was worth it because the moment when every thing came together and when every movement felt effortless made sending that much more divine.

One more piece of exciting news, I just recently got sponsored by flashed!I am really excited to be a part of their team they are a great company!

Stoked on life!

Happy Climbing,

Becca

Post Sending Stoke! Photo Creds to the fabulous Vikki Weldon

Summer Update

Hope everyone is enjoying the last few days of summer!

Over the past few months I have had the amazing opportunity to climb/train with some very talented people. I got to train with Sonnie Trotter and Stacey Weldon for a few weeks which was such a great learning experience; they are so inspiring and have so much knowledge to offer. I also participated in an amazing week long outdoor training camp with National Team coach Dung Nguyen, which consisted of a week of outdoor climbing at some of the Bow Valley's best crags including Acephale, Heart Creek, Carrot Creek and Grassi Lakes! I sent my second 5.13A of the season called "Hecubus" and I am currently working on "The Hood" 5.13b at Acephale. I have only gotten on the route about seven times but I am so close!

Cold day up at Acephale

After the week of outdoor climbing in Canmore my family and I drove to Victoria to drop my sister Sara off with the National Team. While Sara was in Victoria the week before Worlds, I went to Horne Lake for four days. I got on "Jesus Save The Pushers" a super cool 15 bolt 5.13A that follows the steepest part of the cave. Unfortunately I did not send the route or any other route for that matter, my body and my mind were definitely exhausted from two weeks of climbing everyday.


 As for the competition part of the summer, I cheered on my sister and the rest of team Canada at the World Youth Climbing Championships. This year the competition went really well for the Canadians. We had ten athletes advance to the semi-final round in difficulty and we had a few speed athletes who set personal best times! I am especially super proud of  my sister who came 30th in lead at her first Worlds!

Spending my summer training, outdoor climbing and watching worlds has really reminded me of how much I love climbing and how much better I preform when I'm not thinking about outcomes. So - for this season at every competition I am just going to enjoy myself and climb my best without thinking about the end result. As a wise man (Dung Nguyen) once said train, climb and wait for results!


Still one more week left before school starts again so climbing in Skaha for the next few days...should be a blast! Stay tuned for another post to come in early September :)

Until next time,

Becca

Opening Ceremonies at the WYCC

View from the bottom of the wall-Horne Lake

The finals routes are up and ready to be climbed at the WYCC

To Infinity and Beyond!

Hi Everyone!

The National championships in Victoria this year did not go so well for me. I think it was definitely more of a metal problem rather then physical because I had been training so hard the whole year. With the exception of my first route I climbed, on every other route I just did not feel like I normally do. I was not climbing with my normal confidence and I could tell this from the second my feet left the ground.

So the reason I am deciding to share this blog post with you guys is that I think I will get a sense of closure from what happened at Nationals this year, and I will be able to move on and take this experience as a good one! So here it goes..

I believe that you can take failure in two ways. You can either give up on yourself and say this sucks I am never going to do this again or you can take it in stride and use it to your advantage; as motivation and this is exactly what I am doing.

First Quali-photo creds Kevin Segedi@segedi.com

A few days ago I came across two videos one was about Lynn hill and the other one featured Huji Hirayama (both movie links below) despite the differences in the movies I found that I took away the same message after watching both movies. It was to just enjoy climbing. To be one with the rock, to just get into the flow and movement and to forget about the end goal or about getting to the top of the route on an onsight attempt. I think this is exactly what I forgot to do last weekend.

Yuji Hirayama Video
Lynn Hill-Patience and Climbing Video



So in the end what did I learn from my Nationals experience this year? Things don't always work out the way you would like them to. But that's okay because if you learn from your mistakes you will come back even stronger then before.
And I always remember that when life gives you lemons make fruit punch!

I would also like to take this time to thank everyone that has supported me this year, especially my parents, my teammates, my incredible sister who by the way crushed at Nationals, and my amazing coaches! I had an amazing year of competing and I am looking forward to this summer which will be filled with outdoor climbing and of course fun!!! :)

Stay tuned for another post to come soon,

Becca :)

Spring Break-Red Rocks 2013

Hello Everyone!

It has been just about a month since I last posted, and oh man do I have a lot to share! 

I spent my first week of my spring break in Red Rocks Nevada, which I was super stoked about. This year was my third year in a row going to Las Vegas for climbing and it is always really interesting comparing my previous years in Red Rocks and getting back on some unfinished projects.

One of Red Rocks Classics-The Gift 5.12D Photo Creds:Dung Nguyen

 My family and I headed to Las Vegas with some kids from our team,  some of the Edmonton team and our coach for the week Dung Nguyen (Yoda). The focus of Red Rocks this year was volume on easy climbs and also a few days of hard projecting on the last few days of the trip. I would have to say that my favorite climbing area that we visited is the Tsunami Wall at the second pullout. I think it was my favorite because all the routes were short, powerful, steep and crimpy which is my strong suit. Another plus was that our group had the whole wall to ourselves for the most part because the easiest route is 5.12A so not very many people could climb there.

The Gang! Photo Creds: Steve Frangos

The Parents

For me this year in Red Rocks was definitely a turning point in my climbing career. I sent my first 5.13A, S.O.S which was super inspirational for me and I also sent seven 12's throughout the week  and I flashed a 5.12C called New Wave Hookers. Other than me being very happy on how my climbing is going, my mental state is also right up there too so I am stoked on life!!!

 

Working the crux on Pet Shop Boy 5.12D Photo Creds: Sara Frangos

Sun Tanning at the Tsunami wall with Kris

As far as an youth competition update, Alberta just had their youth provincials and everyone crushed and I had so much fun. Also Regionals is in three weeks in Calgary which is super exciting. As well TDB Bouldering Nationals are in Edmonton this weekend so good luck to everyone competing.

Right now I am back in Canmore just hanging out and climbing at the new multiplex facility which by the way is amazing! Then it is back to normal life for me when I head back to school on Monday. I wish spring break was longer. The whole Red Rocks trip this year really showed me that my training has payed off and that if you set your mind to something anything is possible!

Happy Climbing,

Becca.

The Fam Jam

My Little friend

Fear This Sport 5.12B Photo Creds: Sara Frangos

Just Hanging Out...Literally Photo Creds: Monika Helbig

 

Ali and I getting stoked on life Photo creds: Ali Funk

Road Trippin'

I think it would be an understatement for me to say that the past two weeks have been quite full on. From two back to back lead competitions in Edmonton to Victoria and Abbotsford to climb some more, it has definitely been all climbing all the time, which is awesome!

Two weeks ago my family and I hopped in the car and drove the long, uneventful road to Edmonton for the first two lead competitions of the year. I got to admit I was pretty psyched; I could barely contain myself for the four hour car ride. February 16th was the first day of competition at Vertically Inclined Rock Gym. I climbed two really cool "flash format" routes that were both on overhangs and roofs..my favourite.

Qualifier #1. at Vertically Inclined 

Photo Creds Kevin Segedi

Photo Creds: Kevin Segedi

The next morning was the day of competition at the new hip gym, Rock Jungle Fitness. This time it was two "onsight" format routes. My first route was quite easy, it had lots of big holds and most of the girls in my category got to the top with no difficulty whatsoever. Because of this, I knew that the route setters would put us on something much harder for our next route. Something that would separate our category. So I knew that I would need to step up my game for the next route and leave everything on the wall if I wanted to get the high point.

When we went out to preview our second route, we stopped at the very far right of the wall where the 16-17 boys category had their first qualifier route. At that moment I was so stoked because most of the boys had fallen on the last few moves of the route so I knew it would be difficult; a challenge is something I am always up for.

As a sat waiting in the on-deck chair before going to climb my route, I had a deep pit growing in my stomach. I could hear the crowd cheering for my sister, who was climbing the route just one person before me and my mind started racing as to where she was on the route. But just like my old coach Dung says, control what you can control. So I did; I stuck my headphones on and blasted ke$ha, Tic Tok (my pre-comp song) to full volume and slowly started getting into my element.

Then it was finally my turn to go. I climbed to the third draw fairly calmly and collected, and completed an awkward crossover to a pinch then a bump with my right hand to a gaston. When I did that, the crowd started cheering super loud which I was not expecting since I was not even half way up the route. I continued for about fifteen more moves and pulled through one huge lock off to an under-cling and two big jumps before reaching the final two moves. I remember being so motivated just being so close to the top. I gave it everything I had, and completed the two final moves clipping the anchors with a sigh of relief.

Photo Creds: Kevin Segedi

Pushing through the last two moves on my second qualifier

Photo Creds: Kevin Segedi

Stretching to reach the under cling on my second qualifier at RJF

Photo Creds: Kevin Segedi

I ended up winning both competitions in Edmonton and my fellow teammate Amy Sutley and my sister Sara came a close second and third on the first day. Jen Slater and Sara ended up second and third at Rock Jungle. Also congrats to everyone who competed; you guys crush!!!

Just a few hours after the comps in Edmonton had come to an end I was on my way again but this time to Victoria and Abbotsford. My mom, Sara and I spent four days in Victoria. On two of the days Sara and I trained with the amazing Boulderz team on the 45ft walls which was great given that Nationals will be there in May. Then we headed to the Tour De Bloc bouldering competition in Abbotsford. I had so much fun!! The routes were all so amazing and I got to see some of my friends from B.C!

On the Way To Victoria!!!

Next up on my schedule is the Provincial Championships in Calgary on March 16th then on to Red Rocks for spring break!

Stay tuned,

Becca :p

P.S I would like to thank my two amazing sponsors my mom and dad for all your support and all the amazing photos on this post were taken by Kevin Segedi @ Segedi.com! Make sure you all check out his website.