"Aerodynamically, the bumble bee shouldn't be able to fly, but the bumble bee doesn't know it, so it goes on flying anyway. "
-Mary Kay Ash

Sunday 29 September 2013

Chasing Summer!

For a good year I had been staring up at a route called The Hood a 5.13B up at Acephale. Every time I walked by it I had to stop and look up at the beautiful piece of rock looming over me. Every thing about the route was perfect. The angle, the way the holds were shaped, I had to climb it. So this summer I thought why not give it a try.

The crux sequence consists of four really difficult and precise movements on crimps, pinches and side pulls. After that it is just a matter of keeping it together on the 12b/c section to the top. I remember coming home every night feeling so frustrated because I was falling on the same crux move to the pinch over and over and over again, even though I could one hang the route so easily. Either my foot slipped or I just did not have enough energy to keep going. After so many failed attempts I realized that every move had to be perfected.

Working the Crux! Photo Credit: Sara Frangos
Standing at the bottom of the wall on my sending burn, I slowly started get psyched. I glared up at the route thinking to myself this is going down. I looked over and smiled a cheeky grin at my sister Sara. Then finally I took of my cookie monster mitts and I made my way to the start. The first few moves felt quite good, and I was feeling super strong. Every clip was fast and I rested only when I needed to. So far every movement felt effortless. After what seemed like an eternity I found myself face to face with the crux. I did the first crux move and let out one long breath as geared up for the next, most difficult moves. I made it to the last crux move and in one swift motion lunged for the side I screamed as loud as I could, I was not going to fall now. When I made it past the crux I was all smiles but I remembered to stay calm and focused making sure to not make any stupid mistakes. I reached the top just a few minutes later, letting out a yahoooo as I clipped the anchors.

Working on the hood was frustrating, annoying, and it took a lot of mental energy. But every attempt was worth it because the moment when every thing came together and when every movement felt effortless made sending that much more divine.

One more piece of exciting news, I just recently got sponsored by flashed!I am really excited to be a part of their team they are a great company!

Stoked on life!

Happy Climbing,


Post Sending Stoke! Photo Creds to the fabulous Vikki Weldon

No comments:

Post a Comment